A client asked me in 2020 if I knew what could be inside a British Pop Star’s face cream as she said it really gives her a glow. So I promised to look into it for her. I decided to publish it in 2022. Enjoy.
The website says about it: ‘Cell Rejuvenating Priming Moisturizer illuminates all skin types with an immediate natural glow. Its long term results go far beyond a traditional priming moisturizer: thanks to powerful, clean ingredients, this crème uses the body’s own self healing process to renew the skin’s barrier while its deeply hydrating properties instantly plump, tone, and increase radiance — improving overall texture and preparing skin for makeup.’ which is all rather exciting.
The cream comes in two sizes, 30ml and 50ml which I think is sensible as it gives consumers a chance to try out a smaller size first. (Gosh its Aug 2022 and they have now added a 15ml size! – £140-50ml, £92 – 30ml, gee thanks, £58-15ml.
Also it’s dispensed via an airless system so no dirty fingers contaminating the product. And looks like it will fit into a handbag easily so good for travel.
Ok, what is inside the jar then? Let’s take a peek under the hood:
Water / Aqua / Eau, Glycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Saccharomyces/xylinum/black Tea Ferment, 1,2-hexanediol, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Silica, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Tfc-8, Sodium Hyaluronate, Papain, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Lecithin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Panthenol, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Stearate, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, N-hydroxysuccinimide, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Tin Oxide, Algin, O-cymen-5-ol, Polysorbate 80, Potassium Sorbate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Victoria Beckham beauty
What gives the glow then? There are ‘optical powders’ inside which soften or blur optically, giving an impression of smoothness. They will wash off in the shower.
Saccharomyces – that’s brewers yeast or baker’s yeast
Black tea ferment – well we all know that tea is packed with catechins.. and fermented foods are helpful to the skin’s microbiome.
Micro algae- yes another goodie for the amino acids – it’s what gives La Mer it’s success – and marine extracts are really useful. Another less well known marine extract is Sea Fennel.
A super-complex of natural amino acids and high-grade vitamins that renews cells and improves the health of your skin.
There’s Palmitoyl Tertapeptide-10, a peptide that has a soft polishing effect which improves skin surface and reveals a uniform glow. It may or may not be part of the TFC8 complex.
The second main ingredient after tap water is Triethylhexanoin is a synthetic mixture of glycerin and a fatty acid that functions as a solvent, occlusive, and skin-conditioning ingredient.
Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate (DUB ESTOLINE®) is an ingredient with a honey-like texture to be added to any type of oil phase to offer a luxurious, comfortable finish.
Isostearyl Isostearate is a fluid emollient for oils. It provides a rich feel and improves spreading on the skin. Used in lipsticks and as a binding agent for make-up powders.
Saccharomyces/xylinum/black Tea Ferment – well that’s lab made Kombucha tea. Yeah, you can make that yourself and drink some daily if you like :-) The sales report says it provides ‘radiance’, anti-ageing, smoothing and re-densifying and improves the overall skin quality by enhancing skin smoothness, radiance and colour.
TFC8® is a patented and mysterious complex by Augusinus Bader. It’s his “Trigger Factor Complex and comprises natural amino acids, high-grade vitamins and synthesized molecules naturally found in skin. It guides key nutrients and powerful natural ingredients to the skin cell. What’s inside that?
“Trigger Factor Complex consists of water, ethanol, glycerol, vitamin E acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, L-arginine, L-phenylalanine, L-lysine, L-alanine-glutamine, L-tryptophane, L-tyrosine, L-valine, L-Prolin, L-taurine, ceramide NG, ceramide NP, oleic acid, palmitic acid, sodium ascorbate, phenoxyethanol, mustard seed oil, EDTA, oligopeptide.” So a long list. The first three ingredients are water, ethanol (what we used on our hands as sanitiser) and glycerine. The fourth ingredient is Vitamin E. Then there’s lecithin. After that there’s cholesterol, amino acids, ceramides fatty acids , Vitamin C and peptides. tcf8 appears in the list alongside Hyaluronic acid, and HA is always used in small doses, so you can guess that there isn’t much of it in the cream anyway. And even then, the majority of the recipe is water, ethanol and glycerine. It’s really a unicorn ingredient meaning, it keeps you puzzling to its magic. And that is the secret ingredient, the magic of magic of magic.
HyaCare® Filler CL is a topical wrinkle smoother of crosslinked polysaccharide made from fermentation-derived Hyaluronic acid. It contributes instantly to the reduction of facial fine lines and wrinkles as well as increasing the elasticity of the skin. Because of its high water-binding and strong short-term moisturization properties, HyaCare® Filler CL supports effectively the hydration of the skin.
INCI Name Aqua; Ethylhexyl Stearate; Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer; Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate; Sodium Isostearate
Sodium stearate is the sodium salt of stearic acid. This white solid is the most common soap. It is found in many types of solid deodorants, rubbers, latex paints, and inks. It is also a component of some food additives and food flavorings.
OK I’ve run out of steam analyzing this formula. Lots of lab-made items. Lots of middlemen – lots of big names demanding luxury lifestyles. Meaning, a small amount of the cost actually goes into the ingredients used. This is why they blur/hide/confuse their product description so much.