Acne and pimples suck. I thought my teenage years of misery with spots were a thing of the past, but then the pandemic happened.
I got a nasty red spot on my chin the day after my post-lockdown haircut. Horrible! (the spot, not the haircut)
Then I scratched away at it, leaving an uglier patch of dark skin called Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
So I experimented on the dark acne scar with a new ingredient called Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP).
What is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a derivative of Vitamin C, nicknamed the new and effective “natural acne treatment”.
But unlike Ascorbic Acid that is unstable and oxides, often creating a tingling sensation on the skin, SAP is resistant to oxidisation which is good news for your skin.
SAP is powerful antioxidant and because it is bio available, your skin can use it to even out discolouration.
It’s preferred to the Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Ascorbyl Palmitate, and Ascorbic Acid other Vitamin C derivatives.
What does Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) do?
If you have dark discolouration from spots caused by acne or maskne, then your skin needs vitamin C.
SAP is able to penetrate the epidermis without causing irritation or oxidising.
It prevents excess melanin from depositing and making the spot darker.
SAP protects your face against free radicals that want to age your skin.
When worn under sunscreen, SAP boosts the UV protection
It brightens your skin tone and evens out your complexion by fading pigmentation and brown spots.
And it boosts collagen production.
The snag is that it’s expensive, which is why the less stable from Ascorbic Acid is used.
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So what else can you do to fade acne scars?
Load up on natural Vitamin C in your menu – fresh citrus, strawberries, kiwi fruits, leafy green veg. Take a Vitamin C Supplement.
If you bruise easily, it’s a sign your vitamin C levels are low. That’s how I know when I need to take my Vitamin C supplement – I don’t take it every day.
Extra tip: If you make fresh orange juice from organic oranges, nibble on the peel for extra benefits.
Apply a product loaded with SAP the stable form of cosmetic Vitamin C, eg Vitamin C Serum made by Wendy Gardner at Glow Skincare
In the evening use a natural retinol derivative to help speed up skin regeneration, and brighten your skin. (Cacay, Babchi, Hibiscus)
Once your skin is healed, use a gentle exfoliating scrub twice a week (we recommend Harmony that’s made with ocean-friendly bamboo silica spheres.)
Wear a light moisturiser under your face mask to prevent chafing. Wash your fabric face mask regularly.
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Which cream is best for pigmentation?
Look for creams rich in omega threes and Vitamin E. Rosehip seed oil is great for reducing pigmentation along with Cacay and Argan.
Heart of Eternity contains Argan oil, which is rich in Vitamin E that protects your skin against UV damage.
Certain extracts offer UV protection like pearl powder and buddleja extract. You can dust your face with pearl powder to act as a UV blocker.
Can pigmentation be removed?
Yes, follow the guidelines in this article.
Eat healthy foods and switch to gentle natural skincare. Make sure you’re getting plenty of Vitamin C both in your food as well as skincare. This will also help keep your collagen firm and bouncy :-)
Give yourself time and patience to allow the pigmentation to fade.
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Can you combine vitamin c with niacinamide?
Absolutely. They’re both excellent for keeping skin healthy and happy. Read this post on Vitamin B3 Niacinamide. I use it in Drench facial tonic that you can apply morning and evening, as well as after yoga, Pilates, or dance class.
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I recall using very harsh cleansers and scrubs on my face and back as a teenager (Clearasil.) These did not help then, and they won’t help now. Skin needs to be treated gently.
If you’ve been using Tretinoin (aka all-trans retinoic acid) for your acne, then you’ll have experienced the redness, peeling and light sensitivity it causes. Retin-A side effects include burning, itching, stinging, scaling, redness, chapping, peeling and even dryness. This is why I switched to gentler skincare methods when I was plagued by acne.
Sloshing on Salicylic Acid or Glycolic acid to a new scar will actually worsen the problem, while Hydrocortisone thins skin making it more fragile.
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